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Author Topic:   best steel for combat knives, your opinion
hegga
Novice
posted 06-07-2003 09:37     Click Here to See the Profile for hegga     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I have a great combat knife made of s30v and I want to get one that's made of 154cm that seems every bit as tough as the s30v. I realize that heat tempering plays a large roll in toughness of a blade ,, but assuming that both blades are tempered to their maximum potential, which one do you feel makes for a better combat blade?

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Steve Harvey
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posted 06-09-2003 11:04     Click Here to See the Profile for Steve Harvey   Click Here to Email Steve Harvey     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Of the two, S30V would be my choice, as it was designed with knife blade durability in mind. The particle metalurgy process used to manufacture S30V is intended to create a more homogenous distribution of elements and a finer grain size. This reduces the liklihood of failure at the grain boundaries. Particle metalurgy also allows greater concentrations of alloys which result in very high wear characteristics, i.e. longer edge holding.

I also have a couple of ATS-34(identical to 154CM for all practical purposes) combat blades that were cryogenically quenched and triple tempered, and they have been quite satifactory for the uses I have put them to. I don't immediately think of either 154CM or S30V as the ideal for a combat blade though. Tool steels that can be differentially heat treated have a greater potential for extreme durability, and both 154CM and S30V are not entirely immune to rust.

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jwbirch
Member
posted 06-10-2003 12:20     Click Here to See the Profile for jwbirch   Click Here to Email jwbirch     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thank God I'm not the only one with that question! I'm not getting anything useful yet from my post on the Chris Reeves forum on BladeForums. I asked why CRK used S30V for the GB knife instead of his proven A2 tool steel, which I understand to be a better choice for large combat/fighting knives. I'll be seeing a lot of S30V in the future, and would like to know it's drawbacks/weaknesses.

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Gordo
Member
posted 06-10-2003 18:15     Click Here to See the Profile for Gordo   Click Here to Email Gordo     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hopefully this link will provide some information to your questions.
Right hand side, fourth one down, "Articles". You should find three of them. http://mdk.idv.tw/e_index.htm

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Steve Harvey
Moderator
posted 06-11-2003 11:06     Click Here to See the Profile for Steve Harvey   Click Here to Email Steve Harvey     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by jwbirch:
...I asked why CRK used S30V for the GB knife instead of his proven A2 tool steel, which I understand to be a better choice for large combat/fighting knives...

I am surprised that somebody from CRK wouldn't have a stock speech on that point. Essentially, makers of extreme use knives are always faced with the tradeoff between corrosion resistance and toughness. In the case of production heat treat, it is most likely that S30V provides similar edge durability to A-2, and of course greater corrosion resistance. Heck, S30V may be better in every way than batch cooked A-2. The marketing line from Crucible is that S30V is tough as A-2, as corrosion resistant as 440C, and more wear resistant than D-2, all at the same time. Of course that depends on the heat treat all around.

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jwbirch
Member
posted 06-11-2003 13:03     Click Here to See the Profile for jwbirch   Click Here to Email jwbirch     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks Gordo and Steve. So far my research has led me to believe (contrary to CPM's claim)that S30V holds the best edge at 62RC, and is toughest for large knife applications in the low to mid 50s. So some makers compromise with 58RC.
Steve, you may have answered it best when you said, "Heck, S30V may be better in every way than batch cooked A-2". But would A2 at optimum heat treat outperform S30V at compromise heat treat? Still no word from the CRK camp on BF...

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Steve Harvey
Moderator
posted 06-12-2003 10:22     Click Here to See the Profile for Steve Harvey   Click Here to Email Steve Harvey     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by jwbirch:
...But would A2 at optimum heat treat outperform S30V at compromise heat treat?...

Well yes, that is the $10,000 question. If it is any consolation, CRK's heat treat of A-2 was also a compromise on the side of toughness, 58 RcH, if I remember correctly.

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Gordo
Member
posted 06-12-2003 13:41     Click Here to See the Profile for Gordo   Click Here to Email Gordo     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
hegga,
I'm just forwaring the info that I found.
Thank the author. He's the one with the knowledge.
What is his name anyway?...

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mug
Novice
posted 06-12-2003 21:48     Click Here to See the Profile for mug   Click Here to Email mug     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Yea ,it seems that he did not have a lot to say in support of 154 cm.. for my purposes,, s30v seems like a pretty damn good overall package. I know very little about steel and its best applications.. but i'm learning. a fasinating topic,,I am going to look into some knives that are made of tool steel. what makers use tool steel a lot?
Ps,, I am watching one of those "knife collecors" shows.. hilarious.. who the hell is Frost Cutlery? Makers of $5 "state of the art" knives. this show is funny as hell.
thanks for all the replies...

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Mad Dog
Moderator
posted 06-13-2003 09:12     Click Here to See the Profile for Mad Dog   Click Here to Email Mad Dog     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Let me ask y'all a question:
If you are really dissatisfied with ATS34 and 154CM, which the same people who are now pushing S30V told you were "Ultimate Cutlery Steels", why the heck would you believe them now?

Knives are, first and foremost, cutting tools to be used by humans. If the knife is not designed from the steel up with that in mind, why would you waste money on it?

Generally speaking, any steel that has more than about 5% chrome is making a sacrifice in either toughness or edge holding in favor of corrosion resistance or some other dubious feature.
Even D2 runs about 12% chrome, and only holds and edge well when left really hard. Naturally, it's toughness goes out the window over 58HRC, and even with 12%+ chrome, it still rusts with the best of them.

IMHO, All of the high chrome stain resisting steels pretty much just suck as combat knives.

Further, too many of the vanadium carbides alleged to precipitate in S30V and other PM steels will reduce toughness dramatically, although abrasion resistance goes through the roof. Take a look at their last great attempt at the "ultimate cutlery steel", CPM T440V.
You'll find that although it has great abrasion resistance, at eight points lower hardness it has only about half the toughness of standard 440C. Why bother?

I am always leary of designer "cutlery specific" steels, as they tend to be heavily marketed repackages of something done long ago and since abandoned, or something new that answers a lot of questions that nobody bothered to ask.

Fad steels, like designer clothing fashions, are here today and thankfully gone tomorrow; but invariably replaced by the next big whoop te doo shamelessly marketed to the dedicated followers of fashion.

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hadavis
Member
posted 06-13-2003 09:49     Click Here to See the Profile for hadavis   Click Here to Email hadavis     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I'll throw in my $.02 worth . . .

Understand, I don't play with sharp things for a living but I do play with them all the time.

In my collection of toys, of the knives I use (hunting, camping, etc.) I only have TWO knives that are made of a single steel. One is made from an old planar blade (from Gates Rubber's old factory) and the other is made from the torsion bar from a John Deere tractor.

The planar blade we have no clue as to what the steel is -- it was given to me by a knife maker friend and I was asked to abuse it to death. I couldn't. But we have no way to reproduce it. Ditto with the torsion bar knife.

All the other knives I use tend to be composites (if that is the right word?). Some are Damascus, some are sandwiched, and some are folded.

These tend to hold up very well. And they combine some of the better qualities of each type of steel. For example, I have one knife that is a 5 layer sandwich (ala the Sweedish way of knife making) with the "core" being T440V, the next two layers out being ATS34, and the outside layers (where you see the flats of the knife) being a stainless that I forget.

Watching the knife being made I understand that it is a bitch and a half to get all the layers properly welded together, then it gets interesting when you apply a differential heat treatment (he had to use a jewelers green rouge to paint it sort of like the Japanese do with swords), etc. Maybe not mass production but effective.

So I guess I would ask those on this forum, why limit yourself to ONE steel instead of using composites or layers of steel with different qualities?

And if using layers, what would the best combinations be?

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Steve Harvey
Moderator
posted 06-13-2003 10:31     Click Here to See the Profile for Steve Harvey   Click Here to Email Steve Harvey     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I have always been a little cynical about san mai, or layered blades. It seems to me that the performance you get is ultimately determined by the steel that makes up the edge. That is where the rubber meets the road as they say, so the corrosion resistance, wear resistance, toughness, etc. of the meat of the sandwich is really what determines what kind of blade you have got.

Take the materials you mention for example. The core steel 440V is known to be highly stain resistant and wear resistant, but relatively low in toughness. This tells me that the knife is not going to be optimal as an extreme use knife because the edge will be susceptible to impact damage. The edge won't stand up well to chopping and prying, so why weld it into a sandwich of only marginally tougher steels like 154CM?

Weld 440V between tougher steels, and you've got a knife with an edge that will chip from extreme use and rust on the outside. The worst of both worlds. As Mad Dog alluded to with D-2, 440V is going to do best in knives designed for low stress cutting where you can leave the hardness very high for an edge that will last forever and won't rust, but would be vulnerable to damage from impacts or concentrated lateral stress.

Now if one made a san mai of say 52100 and L-6, I can see where you might get a blade that was tougher and more wear resistant than either single steel, but the complexity of producing such a blade would seem to be prohibitive compared to selectively tempering a homogenous 52100 blade to acheive similar results.

I have formed the opinion that san mai was created at a time when really good steel was hard to find. Good steel was used to form the edge, and easier to procure, lower quality steels were used to give the blade the required mass and strength. We now have lots of very high quality steel, so we don't need to do that any more.

[This message has been edited by Steve Harvey (edited 06-13-2003).]

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hadavis
Member
posted 06-13-2003 12:20     Click Here to See the Profile for hadavis   Click Here to Email hadavis     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Interesting, because I have not considered it in quite that light before.

I have always been of the opinion (and it is just that and nothing more mind you) that 1. knives were specialized (so a knife I use to slice and dice I won't use to dig a hole with) and 2. no matter how tough the steel, it will chip/fail at some point -- so having a design that allows for controlled failure through techniques such as the differential heat treating, san mai, etc. gives superior durability.

While not a part of my collection (though I wish it were but I can only afford to keep what I use) I have seen old Viking swords with nicks cracks where the nick or crack ends where the watermark is. Ditto with old (1100's) Japanese swords where the chip or crack ends at the hamon - which is why you never see a straight hamon.

I do see your point though about having more quality steel available. Instead of controlling failure, prevent it in the first place.

Let me ask then your opinion on wootz steel. See http://metalrg.iisc.ernet.in/~wootz/heritage/WOOTZ.htm for a review.

Let me also ask a second question completely different -- has anybody tried to create a San Mai blade with non-ferrous layers? Thinking specifically of a titanium alloy over steel type of sandwich.

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Steve Harvey
Moderator
posted 06-13-2003 15:36     Click Here to See the Profile for Steve Harvey   Click Here to Email Steve Harvey     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I think a combat knife is probably the least specialized knife there is. They are designed to be the one knife you have with you when you jump out of the airplane, I think. In a hunting camp, especially a gear head hunting camp, you have your skinning knife, your hunter, your cook knife, your camp knife, and the Gerber that you loan out to your buddies.

The primary question still remains whether you can accomplish anything with san mai that you cannot accomplish more simply with differential heat treatment.

Wootz is an intrigueing thing. It is essentially a carburization process as opposed to a welding process. It would be interesting to know how a Wootz blade would compare to a differentilly heat treated, high-carbon, low-alloy tool steel blade, but Wootz is so rare, we may never see such a thing done.

There was a company a few years back making Ti-steel-Ti blades that had good reviews for performance. Not good enough to keep them in business apparently, as they are no longer making knives as far as I know.

Mike Snody was experimenting with blades of ATS-34 and BG-42 with Cobalt edges welded onto them. This was the ultimate case of the weak edge on a stronger blade to me. I haven't seen any more of these attempts in the last couple of years.

Here is a doozy. Mick Strider, Ti integral handle and blade with a steel edge press fit.

[This message has been edited by Steve Harvey (edited 06-13-2003).]

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Mad Dog
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posted 06-15-2003 18:18     Click Here to See the Profile for Mad Dog   Click Here to Email Mad Dog     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The biggest problem with Titanium/Steel hybrids is the disparity between the two in their relative positions on the Galvanic scale.
Titanium is so much higher on the scale than any of the steels, even high chrome stain resisting versions, that once exposed to any even remotely corrosive elements the corrosion cells in the boundary zones form faster than they can be neutralized. The result is steel, even "stainless", that rusts/corrodes at a phenomenal rate. Essentially, the titanium is anodically protected by the steel's sacrifice of mass to the corrosion process.
That doesn't make for very long lived knives.

[This message has been edited by Mad Dog (edited 06-15-2003).]

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Steve Harvey
Moderator
posted 06-16-2003 10:15     Click Here to See the Profile for Steve Harvey   Click Here to Email Steve Harvey     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Interesting! Very likely another reason those Ti sandwich blades were not long for this whorl. A person might well buy such a knife thinking that it would be highly immune to salt water, only to have the junction between Ti and steel eventually dissolve like a seltzer tablet. Ooops.

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Neil Ostroff
Novice
posted 06-16-2003 14:10     Click Here to See the Profile for Neil Ostroff   Click Here to Email Neil Ostroff     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I believe that CPM S30V hardened to no more than 58rc is a good choice- allowing for a quicker sharpening on the fly- (in combat).

Neil

------------------
Neil Ostroff
True North Knives
www.TrueNorthKnives.com

Click here to sign up for our newsletter>>>>>> www.truenorthknives.com/tnk_joinlist.htm

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hadavis
Member
posted 06-16-2003 15:32     Click Here to See the Profile for hadavis   Click Here to Email hadavis     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Dang! There goes my next "project" out the window!

Sort of like droping a copper penny in an aluminum boat I guess . . .

Has anybody tried a coating on blade -- like electroless nickel or duralloy?

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Mad Dog
Moderator
posted 06-16-2003 23:19     Click Here to See the Profile for Mad Dog   Click Here to Email Mad Dog     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Where the heck have you been?
All of my knives have been sold standard with mil spec hardchrome coatings for the last umpteen years.

It is tougher, more abrasion resistant and has better corrosion resistance on tool steel than e-nickel.

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Turnkey
Member
posted 08-14-2003 15:55     Click Here to See the Profile for Turnkey   Click Here to Email Turnkey     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Mad DogLet me ask y'all a question:
If you are really dissatisfied with ATS34 and 154CM, which the same people who are now pushing S30V told you were "Ultimate Cutlery Steels", why the heck would you believe them now?>>>

I have knives in ATS-34, 154CM, 440V, 440C, S30V, and others.

I'm a simple guy; I use the knife. When it gets dull, I resharpen it. It cuts. I smile. End of story.

They each have their strengths. However, I think people people go way overboard with these "Steel Wars", overcomplicating the hell out of things.

None of my knives has ever given me a problem, and have done everything I ask. I just leave it at that.

------------------
Sniper
One Shot - One Kill

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Mad Dog
Moderator
posted 08-14-2003 20:35     Click Here to See the Profile for Mad Dog   Click Here to Email Mad Dog     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Turnkey wrote:
"However, I think people people go way overboard with these "Steel Wars", overcomplicating the hell out of things."

I agree.

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elke_weis
Member
posted 08-14-2003 23:16     Click Here to See the Profile for elke_weis     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
and in comes a moron:

i have a very strong feeling my 12" wood chopper, my 5" fillet knife and my 7" stilleto dagger will require different steels for optimum performance.

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Ellis
Novice
posted 09-11-2003 18:53     Click Here to See the Profile for Ellis   Click Here to Email Ellis     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
L-6 on the large chopper,L-6 on the Filet knives and L-6 on the Stiletto.Selective heat-treating.
On non-Damascus knives I usually forge O-1,1095 or 5160,occasionally 52100.All perform well again if properly heattreated and of course with the proper edge geometry,
Dave http://www.mastersmith.com

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